Wines From Montecucco

Montecucco is a relatively new appellation located in southwestern Tuscany, bordering the Montalcino production area inland and extending westwards towards the coast. Unlike Montalcino, whose flagship wines are based exclusively on Sangiovese, the Montecucco appellation allows significant contributions from other varietals: Montecucco Rosso must be 60% Sangiovese, with the remainder non-aromatic red grapes allowed by the Province of Grosseto, which include foreign imports such as Cabernet or Merlot, and domestic varietals such as Colorino or Canaiolo. Montecucco Sangiovese must instead be at least 85% Sangiovese, with the remainder approved varietals, and in this respect its composition resembles that of Chianti Classico. And as is the case in Chianti, some of the producers use just Sangiovese.

As I said, it's a relatively new appellation; in the past production was strictly for local consumption, and since wine was an important source of calories for the farmers, who depended upon it to survive, the emphasis was much more on quantity than quality. Said emphasis is changing, however, and now producers are working to achieve quality. With success; many of the wines presented, especially the Rossi, were pleasant food wines of the sort one sets out on the table to enjoy with the meal, and I found them to be both refreshing and successful.

The Montecucco Sangiovese is more of a mixed bag; it's obviously intended to be a more important wine, and in some cases it is. In others the wines merely come across as bulked up, while lacking the finesse and grace that their lesser cousins display, and this is likely due to inexperience on the part of the winemakers.

Inexperience the winemakers are working hard to do away with: In some cases there were obvious improvements between the 2005 Rosso and the 2004 Sangiovese, and Wine Surf's Carlo Macchi, who arranged the tasting, told me that the improvements since he began tasting the wines a number of years ago have been dramatic.

Another important thing to note about the Montecucco appellation is that it is quite large -- actually slightly larger than Chianti Classico, and several times as large as Brunello, with considerable variations in topography and soil type -- inland the appellation rises up the flanks of Monte Amiata, while towards the coast, where it overlooks Grosseto, it is lower and considerably warmer. These variations in terroir lead to differences in the grapes that are reflected in the wines, and here again producers are still getting a handle on what exactly works best in their particular part of Montecucco.

So we're looking, essentially, at an appellation that is on the ground floor, as it were: They've gotten the foundations squared away, and are beginning to build upon them. What direction they will take is still open to question, though it will be very interesting to see. I hope they aim for elegant wines that are easy to drink, rather than try to match Brunello, but that is their call. The potential is, in any case, certainly there.

The wines, tasted in the Montecucco Consorzio's new headquarters on March 22:

Azienda Agricola La Schiaccionaia
58031 Arcidosso
http://www.schiaccionaia.it

La Schiaccionaia Geo Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, and quite fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by greenish brambly acidity and some vegetal accents and India ink that gains in intensity with time. Nice balance, and zesty. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit that's a bit smoother than I expected from the nose, supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a brambly feel to them and flows into a finish that gradually reveals iodine. It's pleasant at first sip, but the iodine distracts; this is in a tasting situation, whereas with foods -- succulent grilled meats -- it will drink nicely.
1 star

La Schiaccionaia Trasubie Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and slightly almandine rim. The bouquet is a touch wild, with stable muck mingled with underbrush and some greenish spice and iodine, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with quite moderate red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while there isn't much acidity to provide direction, and as a result it pools on the tongue, not sure where to go. I'd have liked more fruit and greater direction than I found.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Marinelli
Podere Marinelli
58033 Montenero
Tel. 0564 954 039

Marinelli Il Cacciatore Montecucco Rosso 2005
Impenetrable pyrope ruby -- poured ink. The nose is eye opening; a fellow taster mutters about horse sphincters, while I smell mostly rotten eggs. We try a second bottle: is better, with brambles and underbrush mingled into barnyard tang with some acidity. Earthy. On the palate it's medium bodied, with slight berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that have some menthol overtones, and flow into a clean slightly minty finish. It's unusual, and gives an impression of casting about, trying to get its bearings.
No star

Marinelli Marinelli Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with animal notes -- leather and some stable straw -- mingled with spice and brambly notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate sour cherry acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a clean Sangiovese burr and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's a bit understated; I'd have liked greater concentration and a touch more fruit, but the acidity is pleasant and will help it drink nicely with simple foods. Direct, and just a bit understated.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Basile
Podere Montemario
58044 Cingiano
http://www.vinicolabasile.it

Basile Cartacanta Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep pyrope ruby with black almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and fresh, with a considerable rush of black currant fruit laced with some spice and slight sweetness, with underlying vanilla. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite soft, with ample currant-cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by tannins that are two faced, in part quite smooth, and in part with a brambly burr that flows into a fairly bitter finish. It's quite direct, and quite approachable, a wine that will drink well with foods and won't distract from what it's served with -- simple grilled meats, light stews, and hearty legume based soups will be nice with it. There is a need for these wines, and this is not a defect.
1 star

Basile Comandante Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is a bit wild, with animal tang and wet horse mingled with stinky moldy cheese of the Roquefort family and some herbal notes; a fellow taster says overly old large wood. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit that gains direction from some acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. A pity about the old wood -- I agree with my colleague -- because the wine that went into it hade more potential than what came out reveals.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Le Calle
Località La Cava 18
58044 Sasso D'Ombrone

Le Calle Campo Rombolo Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite young, with black currant fruit supported by some heather and brambly overtones, with some acidity as well, and slight sea salt. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly intense black currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some pencil shaving greenness, and flow into a warm clean slightly bitter berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a simple fairly international key, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews; expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Le Calle Poggio D'Oro Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is flat; some warmth and hints of cedar emerge, mingled with menthol and acidity, but not much fruit. On the palate it's flat, with moderate fruit supported by dusky tannins, while the acidity doesn't do much to keep the wine up.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Perazzeta
Via Dell'Aia 14
58033 Montenero
http://www.perazzeta.it

Perazzeta Alfeno Rosso Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and young, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by mint and some wet paper, with floral overtones. On the palate it's fresh, young, and direct, with fairly intense wild strawberry-berry fruit supported by floral accents and an element of sweetness, flowing into a clean slightly bitter strawberry finish. It's quite direct, and will drink well with fattier meats off the grill, or perhaps with mixed fried meats. It will work very well in the proper setting, e.g. a cookout or quick summer meal.
1 star

Perazzeta Terre dei Bocci Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is wild, with balsamic notes and stable straw mingled with warmth and acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit that isn't as bright as I might have expected, supported by sour brambly acidity that flows into a clean finish. It's rustic, but doesn't have as much fruit as I'd have liked to pull it together; as a result rusticity wins.
1 star

Le Querciole
Podere Querciole
58033 Montenero
Tel 0564 45 16 07

Conti Dei Conti Montecucco Rosso 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with black almandine rim; poured ink. The bouquet is intense, and eye opening, with white glue mingled with slight vanilla and alcohol. Not much fruit. The palate reflects the nose; it's full, with a fullness born of a vaguely brambly tannic structure, but there's very little fruit to it. Not enough for me.
No Star

Conti Le Querciole Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with lively berry fruit, a mix of cherries and some blackberry, supported by slightly minty acidity and floral accents. Fresh. On the palate it flags badly, with surprisingly tart acidity and very little fruit; the structure comes from tannins but with acidity carrying the show it comes across and hollow cheeked, lacking substance. Because of its tartness it will drink well with fattier foods.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Parmoleto
Podere Parmoletone
58033 Montenero
Tel 0564 954 131

Parmoleto Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with an initial rush of ripe red watermelon with a bit of rind, followed by brambles and herbal notes with some iodine and eucalyptus. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit that gas some dusky graphite shaving bitterness, and gains direction from moderate berry fruit acidity, flowing into a clean bitter finish. It's quite direct, and with the bitter accents isn't a wine to sip by the glass, but will thanks to them work well with fattier foods, either grilled meats or even fried foods.
1 star

Parmoleto Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with moderate red berry fruit supported by some spice and chemical overtones that aren't quite eucalyptus, by in a way bring to mind Fisherman's Friend lozenges. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit that gains direction from rather bitter acidity, and flows into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than I found; as it stands it's settled and a bit weak.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Poggio Leone
Monastero Podere Coniella
58033 Castel del Piano
Tel 0564 954 065

Poggio Leone Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with a fair amount of acidity mingled into wet stable straw and greenish heather, with some lathered horse as well, while there are also youthful floral accents. An unusual mix. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright sour berry fruit supported by very bitter tannins -- it feels as if someone shaved a pencil lead into the glass -- that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's particular, and you have to like the style, but if you do it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Poggio Leone Montecucco Sangiovese 2005
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is bright, with brambly acidity and some red berry fruit mingled with spice and some herbal notes. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate frankly generic fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly cedary burr, and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's lacking in fruit for me.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Banditaccia
Podere Banditaccia
58044 Monticello Amiata
http://www.banditaccia.com

La Banditaccia Aquilaia Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is young, with moderate acidity and greenish eucalyptus mingled with some petroleum and spice. Not much fruit, but it is nicely balanced. On the palate it's medium bodied and softer than one might have expected, with frairly rich, ripe berry fruit that has slight sweet accents, and is supported by clan sweet tannins, while there is some acidity to provide direction, and it all flows into a smooth sweet finish. It's quite approachable, what an Italian might term ruffiano, which means ingratiating in this context, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews. A food wine.
2 stars

La Banditaccia Rosso dell'Olmo Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and deep almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, though very young, with an abundance of cedar mingled with red berry fruit and some spice; at present the wood overshadows, but this is also a function of youth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by deft slightly mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tart finish with some greenish overtones. It's nicely balanced but very young, and though it isn't really complex, nor refined, will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews. In short, a wine that contributes to the meal rather than struggle with the foods.
2 stars

Collemassari
58044
Poggio del Sasso
http://www.collemassari.it

Collemassari Rigoleto Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm cedary red berry fruit laced with white glue -- perhaps wood-fruit interaction -- and some bitter accents. On the palate it's direct, with bright, slightly cedary red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr, and flow into a warm clean finish. It's pleasant, in a simple key, and will drink well with foods, ranging from hearty legume-based soups though pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Collemassari Lombrone Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva 2005
(Already in bottle, but to be released in 2008)
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with red berry fruit mingled with menthol and some spice, with underlying hardwood ash. Young, but promising. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate red berry fruit supported by ample soft tannins, while the acidity is slight at present. It brings to mind a beach ball that has been blown up somehow, and frankly needs time, because it gives an impression of being in mid stride now and embarked on a diet besides; it could develop quite nicely with time but may not. The jury is out.

Azienda Agricola Montecucco
Località Montecucco 13
58044 Sasso D'Ombrone
http://www.tenutadimontecucco.it

Montecucco Passonaia Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fresh, and young, with a rush of bright black currants mingled with some greenish acidity and underlying spice. On the palate it's warm, with bright red berry fruit supported by tannins that while sweet have an unusual peppery tang, flowing into a clean bitter dusky finish. The palate is more rustic than the nose would have suggested, and it is a wine that will work well grilled meats, or perhaps fried foods, though not far from the table. Simple and direct too; nothing hidden here.
1 star

Montecucco Le Coste Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with cedar and some spice mingled with greenish overtones; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported by clean sweet tannins; there isn't much acidity and the wine overall feels fairly tired, and settled too.
1 star

Capanne Ricci
Località Capanne Ricci
58044 Cingiano

Capanne Ricci Ricci Montecucco Montecucco Rosso 2005
Impenetrable black cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some hulking red berry fruit supported by cocoa and hints of leather or white glue; there isn't much acidity, nor any floral accents, and at first sniff it brings to mind something covered by a tarp. As it gradually opens, tart berry fruit emerges. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly lively acidity supporting sour berry fruit, while the tannins are fairly smooth and flow into a warm clean finish. It's frankly old style, and I found it growing upon me as I sipped it; it's one of those wines that will complement what it's served with, making for a sum that's greater than the parts.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Le Vigne
Podere Le Vigne
58033 Montenero
http://www.aziendalevigne.com

Le Vigne Le Vigne Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with black currant fruit supported by slight peppery accents and hints of Marseilles soap -- not sure how else to put it, but that's what comes to mind to me; a fellow taster found incense. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate generic berry fruit supported by tannins that have a peppery tang, and by moderate acidity, while it all flows into warmth. Direct, and that's it.
1 star

Le Vigne Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with stable straw mingled with balsamic notes and some wet horse, with underbrush and some vegetal notes as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean slightly bitter acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean bitter fruit laced finish. It's pleasant, in a traditional key, and if you like the style is nice; it will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola L. Salustri
Località La Cava 18
58044 Poggi del Sasso
http://www.salustri.it

Salustri Marleo Montecucco Rosso 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some red berry fruit mingled with slight dried porcini mushrooms, hints of truffle oil, and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, and smooth, with moderate generic berry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity, and by clean brambly tannins that lay a burr over the tongue, flowing into a savory bitter finish. It's direct, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Salustri Grotte Rosse Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black almandine rim. The bouquet is young, and frankly oaky, of the dusky shadow variety, with some underlying red berry fruit, but what mostly emerges is oak, and it suggests bitterness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by oak -- not much in the way of acidity, though some bitter oak accents emerge, and it flows into a warm clean bitter finish. The wood has beaten the fruit into submission.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Campinuovi
Via Pietro nenni 29
53011 Castellina in Chianti
http://www.campinuovi.com

Campinuovi Campinuovi Montecucco Sangiovese 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and young, with lively cherry fruit supported by some acidity, and by pleasant slightly greenish herbal notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, and oddly watery, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit that has a dilute feel to it, and gains direction from sour cherry/strawberry acidity, while the tannins ate clean and sweet, and it flows into a clean sour berry fruit finish. The first impression is that it's disjointed, and seems to be going in several directions at once. This said, however, it is bright, and welcoming, and because of its acidity will drink nicely with grilled meats or fried foods, while its freshness is pleasant too. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Fusi Orio
Podere Santa Chiara
58033 Montenero
Tel 0564 954 083

Fusi Orio Irio e C. Bruneto Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit laced with some black currants, and deft eucalyptus acidity, with some underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains direction from bright slightly bitter acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. Pleasant, in a classic key; it's warm and welcoming, and while the combination won't work well by the glass far from the table, it will do very well with foods, ranging from legume-based minestrone to meaty pasta dishes, though light stews and simple grilled meats. A fine food wine.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Montesalario
Podere Montesalario
58033 Montenero
Tel 0564 954 173

Montesalario Montesalario Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with red berry fruit mingled with some dried porcini mushrooms, mingled with sea salt and some wet clay. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with less fruit than I might have expected from the nose; what's there is frankly generic berry fruit, supported by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a clean spicy finish. I'd have liked greater fruit than I found; as it stands the tannins carry the show.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Vegni Medaglini Giannetti
Località Porrona Podere Poggio Paolo
58044 Cingiano

Vegni Medaglini Gianni L'Addobbo Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed at first swish, though some hot iron mingled with hints of plum and some graphite emerge. Slight spice too. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate generic red berry fruit that gains direction from some mineral acidity that is almost green apple in its tartness, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's direct, and the fruit isn't as concentrated as I might have liked -- it has a weak dilute feel to it -- but will drink nicely with simple foods.
1 star

Azienda Agricola La Querciolina
Località Pertimali 329
53025 Montalcino

La Querciolina La Querciolina Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, but not fruit driven; rather, there are mineral accents and some spice with violets, and while it is fresh it isn't as inviting as I might have liked. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate generic red berry fruit that gains definition from wild strawberry acidity -- something unexpected -- while the support comes from tannins that have a bitter brambly feel to them. It's direct, and a bit faded, but will drink well with simple foods.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Poggio al Gello
Podere Poggio al Gello
58048 Paganico
Tel 0564 906 025

Poggio al Gello Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by some herbal notes and hints of green leather and spice. Pleasant, and young. On the palate it's bright, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a fairly direct way, and will drink very well with foods now -- grilled meats, roasted red meats, light stews -- while it also has the capacity to age nicely for 2-4 years. If you have the patience, because its current freshness is nice.
2 stars (86)

Azienda Agricola Assolati
Podere Assolati
58033 Montenero
Tel 0564 954 146

Assolati Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly overripe jammy berry fruit that has pronounced black currant fruit overtones and is supported by cedar-laced spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, and not as soft as I'd have expected, though the black currant overtones of the fruit are quite pronounced; to keep it from flagging there's fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth. It needs a few more months to come together (in an international key), but will drink quite nicely with foods, in particular succulent grilled meats or light stews, and is one of those wines that will nicely complement what it's served with.
2 stars

Potentino
Castello di Potentino
58038 Seggiano
Tel 0564 950 014

Castello di Potentino Sacromonte Montecucco Sangiovese 2004
Fairly dark cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and young, with berry fruit mingled with black currant fruit and a fair amount of acidity, with underlying greenish spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit that has some graphite bitterness overtones it, and flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. There isn't much in the way of acidity, and therefore the directions comes from the bitterness of the tannins, which is up to the job, but doesn't do it as well as acidity would have. Drink it with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star