The 2004 Nobile di Montepulciano: Impressions and Notes

Nobile di Montpulciano is coming off two very difficult vintages -- 2002 and 2003 -- so I was quite curious to see what 2004 would bring. The vintage, like the 2004 Chianti Classico vintage, was much better balanced, and as a result differences in winemaking philosophy were readily apparent. In particular, there seem to be two currents in Montepulciano at present; one that is fairly traditional (for want of a better term), which produces lively, elegant wines with ripe red berry fruit, brisk (but not overpowering) acidity, and a vibrant tannic structure to provide support. These wines I found quite elegant, and think they will become very nice with time. In short, something to seek out, and set aside.

The other winemaking current is, well, I wouldn't call it international, but rather soft: Big, strongly extracted wines that are extremely soft, with overripe fruit flavors (in many cases very overripe) and tannins that are ample and lax. There is acidity in some of the wines, and where present it does provide direction, but in many cases the direction is more tannic, and derives in large part from wood. These wines feel very much like the 2003 vintage, when the summer heat and dryness cooked the grapes, but the conditions weren't like that in 2004. So it's a conscious decision on the part of the winemakers to work with very ripe grapes, perhaps in pursuit of greater extraction and color. If you like the style you will like them, but I found them to be too soft and too settled, and also fear that they won't age well for long.

The wines, tasted Feb 22 2007

Avignonesi S.p.a.
Fattoria le Capezzine
53040 Valiano di Montepulcinao (SI)
Telefono: 0578 724304 - Fax: 0578 724308

Avignonesi Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with some almandine in the rim; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is a little wilder than I might have expected, with warm balsamic notes mingled into red berry fruit with some horsehair as well; there's also spice from wood, and the overall impression is quite polished. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full and very smooth, with ample plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick plum cherry finish. It's extremely approachable, in a direct way, and will be a wine of the sort one can drink a glass of far from the table. In terms of accompaniments, because of its softness it will work better with drier meats. If you like this sort of softer wine, you will enjoy it, but it won't work for you if you prefer more marked acidities.
2 stars

Bindella
Via delle Tre Berte, 10/a
53040 Acquaviva
Telefono: 0578 767777 - Fax: 0578 767255

Bindella Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some ripe plum-laced berry fruit with sweetish overtones that are likely a result of wood-fruit interaction; there is also some graphite shaving and cedar. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with oddly muted cherry plum fruit supported by smooth soft tannins; there's moderate acidity as well, but the overall impression is fairly lax, and in the finish the wine surrenders to the wood, leaving bitter cocoa notes with slight coffee grounds. It's quite international, and I found myself wanting better definition; it's frankly settled, and I wouldn't hold it for long. What with? Drier meats.
1 star

Bindella I Quadri Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black lam ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though some spice emerges with more swishing. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry laced finish. Quick to write, but nice balance, and it displays a pleasing grace that I found growing upon me. It needs more time, at least a year, for the everything to come together and the nose to develop, but it will be worth waiting for. Drink it with a platter of mixed grilled meats and you'll be a happy person.
2 stars

Boscarelli
Via di Montenero, 28
53040 Cervognano
Telefono: 0578 767277 - Fax: 0578 766882

Boscarelli Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up delicate cherry and berry fruit supported by some red currant acidity and alcoholic warmth. Quite a bit going on, and promising. On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful, with rich cherry fruit that has some black currant overtones, with slightly brambly acidity that provides direction, and smooth sweet tannins that have a slightly greenish youthful Sangiovese burr, and flow into a clean cedar-laced slightly savory finish. It's a toddler stumbling about, but as it grows into adulthood it will do very nice things. I'd set it aside for a couple of years, and then enjoy it with a thick steak, but if you have the patience to give it longer it will richly reward you. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Canneto
Via dei Canneti, 14 -
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 757737 - Fax: 0578 757737

Canneto Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and spicy, with pencil shavings and cedar mingling with nutmeg and some savory bitterness. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with moderate cherry fruit that fades to reveal warm cedary tannins that carry at length into a warm cedar laced finish. It's lax, and settled, and I'm not sure how well it will age, though I don't think I'd keep it for more than a couple of years.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Triacca
Strada per Pienza, 39
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 757774 - Fax: 0578 757774

Casa Vinicola Triacca Santavenere Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with pleasant cherry fruit that gains direction from deft berry fruit acidity, and is supported by spice -- clove, in particular -- and slight cedar. Nicely balanced. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite elegant, with fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean savory tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a rather cedary finish. It's nice, in a middle of the road key, but needs another year to come together and balance out. Give it time, and it will drink well with light stews, roasts, and grilled meats, and has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Contucci
Piazza Grande -
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 757006 - Fax: 0578 752891

Contucci Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up a fair amount of alcohol mingled with spice and moderate fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with ample slightly balsamic cherry fruit supported by tart warmth and by ample lax tannins that flow into a fairly bitter finish. I'd have liked better definition; it's like an image that has been stretched by the wonders of Photoshop, and as a result doesn't hold together as well as it did before it was worked on.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Dei
Via di Martienza, 35
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 716878 - Fax: 0578 758680

Dei Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Impenetrable poured purple ink. The bouquet is powerful for a barrel sample, and very ripe, with plum berry fruit mingled with some spice. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from sufficient acidity to keep it from flagging, while the tannic support is from large, fairly tightly woven tannins that have a warm cedary burr from oak, and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's a wine in the making, but will be elegant in a smooth, rich, very ripe international style. Something to keep an eye out for if you like this style, and it will drink with drier meats upon release, or perhaps by the glass.

Fazi Battaglia s.p.a.
Via di Graccianello, 3/a
53040 Gracciano
Telefono: 0578 708708 - Fax: 0578 708705

Fassati Passiteo Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope ink. If it came out of the ground you'd think it was crude oil. The bouquet is shut tight, which is expectable with a barrel sample. The palate is full and quite soft, with ample cherry plum fruit that gains direction from some citric acidity, and is supported by ample very smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a long warm finish. It will be very approachable in a smooth international style, and work well with drier meats at release, or by the glass far from the table after a year. Worth seeking out if you like this style.

Fattoria Del Cerro
Via Grazianella, 5
53040 Acquaviva
Telefono: 0578 767700 - Fax: 0578 768040

Fattoria del Cerro Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pungent, with a fair amount of alcohol mingled with cedar and some hardwood ash; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with moderately intense fruit; the structure is carried primarily by the tannins, which are large and quite smooth, and flow into a warm cedar-laced finish with some strawberry acidity. It feels like it's trying too hard; because of its softness I'd drink it with drier meats, and also wouldn't hold it too long.
1 star

Fattoria del Cerro Antica Chiusina Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though insistent swishing doe bring up spice mingled with some plum fruit. On the palate it's full, rich, and very smooth, with powerful plum fruit that gains direction from slight acidity, while the support is provided by massive tannins that leave a dusty trail over the tongue, leading into a clean finish that combines sweetness from the fruit with bitter cocoa overtones from the tannins. It's soft, and overripe, and a bit too much of both for me, though if you like this style it is well made.
1 star

Az. Agr. Godiolo
Via dell'Acqua Puzzola, 13 -
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 757251 - Fax: 0578 757251

Godiolo Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample, with bright cherry fruit supported by lemony acidity and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains pleasant direction from citric acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr, and flow into a savory cedar finish. It's quite promising, and if it follows on this path will grow up to be graceful, aging well too. I'd keep an eye out for it.

Società Agricola San Gallo di Olimpia Roberti
Via delle Colombelle 7
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 758330 - Fax: 0578 758330

I Poderi di San Gallo Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with a rush of warm savory cedar that also reveals hints of bitter cocoa as it's swished; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with powerful fairly tart sour cherry fruit supported by tart acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a long warm tannic finish. It's disjointed, and needs another year to come together, though I'm not sure what will happen when it does; it brings to mind one of those people who does strength training (as opposed to body building): solid, but not defined. This said, I would be tempted to give it a couple of years, and then drink it with a steak, because the acidity and fruit is more towards cherry and proper ripeness than overripe softness.
1 star, but it may improve considerably

Icario
Strada per Torrita, 3
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 758845 - Fax: 0578 758441

Icario Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly overripe, with prune fruit mingled with cedar and some nutmeg, with alcohol and some peppery spice as well. Very international in feel. The palate reflects the nose; there's rich plum fruit supported by fairly intense acidity that provides direction, while the tannic structure is ample and will be very smooth when the warm youthful cedary accents have folded back into the wine. It's big, and a touch laxer than I might have liked now -- even though it will smooth, it will never be rally tight -- and will, with time drink nicely with red meats. It's a particular style, with an unusual mix between traditional and international, but it works nicely and will drink well with foods.
2 stars

Icario Vitaroccia Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy berry fruit mingled with plums, some nutmeg spice, and underlying hardwood ash. On the palate it's rich, and full, with ample smooth jammy plum fruit that gains direction from tart red plum acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum laced finish that is kept from flagging by continued tartness. It's very international in style, and a study in smoothness, and as such will work better with drier meats. If you like big soft wines you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Il Conventino
Via della Ciarliana, 25/B
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 715371 - Fax: 0578 716283

Il Conventino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Impenetrable black almandine with some almandine in the rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is shut tight, which is in keeping with barrel samples; some cedar and graphite emerge with swishing. On the palate it's full, and brighter than many, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by almost citric acidity, and by tannins that are woefully young and cedary. It's big, overripe, and may clean up nicely in this soft key, though we'll have to wait to see.

La Braccesca s.a.s.
Via della Stella, 10
53040 Valiano
Telefono: 0578 724252 - Fax: 0578 724118

La Braccesca Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly overripe, with a rush of plum fruit mingled with bitter hardwood ash derived from oak, and some sea salt. The palate reflects the nose; it's ample and smooth with fairly rich ripe plum fruit with jammy overtones that gains direction from slight red plum acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins: A study in softness, and it is eminently approachable in a big, soft style; if this is what you like you will enjoy it very much, but you have to like the style.
2 stars

La Braccesca Santa Pia Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a mixture of cedar and jammy plum fruit with some hardwood ash. It brings to mind a curvy starlet in a glass. On the palate it's ample, soft, and quite smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter plum finish. It's quite approachable is a showy international key, though I wouldn't quite say the body is a starlet -- a touch lax for that. However, if you like this soft fruit driven style, you will like it very much. I don't think it would age very long, 2-3 years at the most.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola La Ciarliana di Frangiosa Luigi
Via Ciarliana, 31
Telefono: 0578 758423 Fax: 0578 758423

La Ciarliana Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with hardwood ash and spice mingling with peppery accents; not much fruit. On the palate it's flat, with moderate red berry fruit supported by tannins that lay a warm cedary veneer over the tongue, and flow into a fairly long cedar-laced finish. It's unsettled, and though it will smooth with time there isn't that much fruit to hold it together, and the tannins do what they can but their role is (should be) to support, not take center stage. I'd have expected more.
1 star

La Ciarliana Vigna Scianello Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar-laced plum berry fruit supported by some spice and moderate acidity. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, smooth, and quite soft, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from clean acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum finish. Elegant, in a ripe fruit driven key, and if you like this style it is worth seeking out. Drink it with drier meats, both red and white.
2 stars

Podere Le Bèrne
Via Poggio Golo, 7
53045 Cervognano
Telefono: 0578 767328 - Fax: 0578 767328

Le Bèrne Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some India ink and slight plum, and subsequently graphite shavings and bitterness. On the palate it's full and smooth, with fairly rich plum fruit that gains direction from bright acidity, while the structure derives from fairly warm cedar-laced tannins, and it all flows into a warm cedary finish with plum overtones. It's still getting its legs about it, and I have the impression the nose has a ways to go; this said it's quite international in style, with frankly overripe fruit, but does have sufficient acidity to keep from failing, and if you like this style I think you will enjoy it, though it does need time -- with drier meats, especially roasted white meats. If you instead prefer more traditional wines it won't work for you.
1 star

Fattoria Le Casalte
Via del Termine, 2
53045 Sant'Albino
Telefono: 0578 798246 - Fax: 0578 799714

Le Casalte Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with hints of almandine at the rim. Poured ink, practically. The bouquet is a touch rustic, with animal notes -- wet hair -- mingled with acidity, spice, and nose-tingling acidity. On the palate it's full, with ample plum fruit supported by tannins that lay an angry hot cedar wash over the tongue, and flow into a hot cedar finish. Someone's angry here, and it shows; though the tannins will fold in with time I doubt the wine will ever really develop balance. The Italian word that comes to mind now is allappante, which means (in this context) tongue-curling
1 star

Tenimenti Agricoli Lodola Nuova
Via Lodola, 1
53040 Valiano
Telefono: 0578 724032 - Fax: 0578 724032

Lodola Nuova Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with warm sour cherry and forest berry fruit laced with slight herbal notes and some wet green leather that confers a slightly rustic touch to a polished whole, and thus adds depth. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean warm sour cherry fruit finish that's fairly long. Refreshing, and a nice break after a slew of overripe wines; it will drink very well with foods, especially grilled meats and roasts, including fattier things such as leg of lamb or grilled lamb chops, and also has the legs to age nicely for a number of years. If you like this fairly traditional style you will like it very much, and even if you think you prefer smoother softer wines, you'll be surprised at how fast it goes when served at table.
2 stars

La Bandita e Lunadoro
Via Terrarossa, Loc. Pagliareto
Telefono: 0578 748154 - Fax: 0578 748154

Lunadoro Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry and blackberry fruit supported by cedar and some warmth, with hints of nutmeg as well, with underlying greenish spicy notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are fairly light and have a splintery youthful burr; as they settle with time I expect the wine will become fairly graceful, in a lighter key than many. Bottom line: Refreshing, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light roasts, though it needs another year to come together. Expect it to age nicely for 5-8 years at least. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Lunadoro Quercione Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit strongly laced with cedar and a fair volume of spice. Very young, and gives an impression of being in formation. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit that gains direction from warm raspberry acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. I found it a touch soft, but liked the richness of the fruit, which has more than enough body to stand up to the wood; it does however need another year to come together. In terms of accompaniments, I would go with succulent red meats, either off the grill or out of the oven. A pleasant discovery.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Nottola s.r.l.
Loc. Bivio di Nottola
53040 Gracciano
Telefono: 0578 707060 - Fax: 0578 707682

Nottola Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Pyrope ink with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is closed, though some plum emerges with swishing. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly intense plum fruit that gains direction from sufficient acidity to keep it from flagging, while the tannins are large and smooth, and when the cedar they are carrying has folded in, will be smooth too. It's going to be a big smooth wine, and if you like this soft fruit driven style you will like it.

Fattoria di Palazzo Vecchio
Via Terrrarosa, 5
53040 Valiano
Telefono: 0578 724170 - Fax: 0578 724170

Palazzo Vecchio Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some balsamic notes and acidity, with underlying wet animal hair. Not really rustic, but a touch in that direction. On the palate it's full, with much of the fullness coming from smooth tannins, while the fruit, a generic berry fruit, is oddly lacking. It brings to mind a frail spindly person enveloped by a large overcoat; the structure is more than the fruit can carry.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Poggio Alla Sala
Strada della Chiana, 3
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 767224 - Fax: 0578 767748

Poggio alla Sala Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit odd, with plum fruit mingled with balsamic notes and hardwood ash. It's not quite oxidized, but in that direction. On the palate it's full, and quite ripe, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from some soft acidity, and is supported by full smooth tannins that have a glancing cedary feel to them; they're not splintery, but clearly reveal an oaky origin, and it all flows into a fairly bitter slightly balsamic finish. It's big, and soft, and will drink best with drier meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Poliziano
Via Fontago, 1
53040 Montepulciano Stazione
Telefono: 0578 738171 - Fax: 0578 738752

Poliziano Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit, a mix of cherries and blackberries, with slight menthol and some spice. Deft, but gives an impression of holding back. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with an initial rush of plum fruit that then pulls back to reveal splintery cedar-laced tannins that flow into a long splintery cedar finish. It's overripe, and for me overoaked; the end result is a wine whose fruit is very soft, with moderate acidity, supported by tannins that are youthfully aggressive, and though they will smooth with time the fruit may have faded by then. Because of the combination of aggressive tannins and soft fruit it's not an easy wine to pair; I'd think about roasted white meats with rich gravies, or perhaps pot roasts and other drier red meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Romeo
Podere Corsica, loc. Nottola -
53040 Gracciano
Telefono: 0578 708599 - Fax: 0578 708599

Romeo Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Lively garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oak-laced with some berry fruit jam and slight greenish accents with pencil shavings; it's obviously developing, and this is par for a barrel sample. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright cherry fruit that has sour cherry overtones with some hints of plum, and gains direction from deft plum acidity and bitter graphite notes, while the tannins, which are now a touch exuberant, will smooth nicely with time. It promises very well, and will likely be quite nice with grilled meats or hearty roasts.

Azienda Agricola Salcheto
Via di Villa Bianca, 15 -
53045 Sant'Albino
Telefono: 0578 799031 - Fax: 0578 799749

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though some graphite emerges with swishing. On the palate it's full, smooth, and soft, with fairly intense plum berry fruit that is overshadowed at present by the cedar from the wood. It will I expect be a big, soft wine when it is done.

Fattoria Della Talosa
Via Talosa, 8
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 758277 - Fax: 0578 752884

Talosa Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and lam rim. The bouquet is spicy, with underlying overripe jammy fruit, primarily plums, and some alcohol as well. On the palate it's big and smooth, with moderately intense plum berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample distinctly cedar-laced tannins that glow into a clean bitter graphite-cedar finish with savory overtones. Too much wood, for me, and though it will fold in with time, I'm not sure how well the fruit will hold, because it's quite ripe already, and soft too.
1 star

Tenimenti Angelini - Tenuta Tre Rose
Via della Stella, 3
53040 Valiano
Telefono: 0578 724018 - Fax: 0578 724103

Tenimanti Angelini Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is overripe, with jammy sweet plum fruit supported by unusual floral accents and delicate spice. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from slight citric acidity, and is supported by ample soft sweet tannins that do have some bitter cedar accents, but will become very smooth, polished even, over the next few months. If you like big, soft fruit driven wines, you will like it very much, though you have to like the style. In terms of accompaniments, it will go well with drier meats, including beef -- pot roasts, or roast beef cooked rare.
2 stars

Tenuta Di Gracciano
Via Umbria, 59
53040 Gracciano
Telefono: 0578 708340

Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is somewhat closed, though swishing brings up cherry fruit laced with graphite and some sweetness. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm clean finish. I found it a bit empty; the structure is much larger than the fruit, which seems to echo some.
1 star

GRACCIANO SVETONI - Tenute Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari
Via Umbria, 63
53040 Gracciano (SI)
Tel 055 200281

Torcalvano Gracciano Torcalvano Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with balsamic warmth and pencil shavings; the overall impression is pleasant. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's unusual, because this sort of softness generally accompanies much riper fruit -- towards plum or even prune -- rather than the cherry we have here. I'd drink it with drier red meats,, perhaps with rich gravies.
2 stars

Az. Agr. Borghini Baldovinetti Averardo
Via delle Tre Berte ( Loc. Argiano )
Montepulciano ( Siena)
Telefono: 0575 24566 - Fax: 0575 24566

Tenuta di Poggio Uliveto Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, with some jammy plum that emerges with swishing. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with ample jammy plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that couple with slight acidity and some graphite bitterness to provide direction, flowing into a cedar laced finish. It needs another year, at which point it will be pleasant enough in a large, soft key, and if you like the style it will drink nicely by the glass or with drier meats. I wouldn't hold it for too long however, because with time the fruit will fade completely.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Il Faggeto
Loc. Fontellera
53040 Sant'Albino
Telefono: 334 3986357

Tenuta il Faggeto Pietra del Diavolo Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight at first swish, and continues in its reticence with time, revealing only slight spice and some hardwood ash bitterness. On the palate it's ample andsmooth, with fairly rich jammy plum fruit supported by warmth and ample tannins that have a slight splintery cedar burr, and flow into a clean plum finish. Pleasant in a smooth, soft very ripe key, and if you like this sort of big soft wine you will like it; in terms of accompaniments I'd think about drier meats. I wouldn't age it much more than a year or two, because it will settle with time.
2 stars

Tenuta Valdipiatta
Via Ciarliana, 25
53040 Gracciano
Telefono: 0578 757930 - Fax: 0578 717037

Tenuta Valdipiatta Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight at first swish, though further swishing does bring up some bitter graphite. Par for a barrel sample. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit that has some strawberry overtones and hints of berry fruit jam, and is supported by a combination of sour cherry acidity and clean sweet tannins that display some cedar now, but will smooth nicely with time. It's quite promising, and will drink well with succulent red meats off the grill or out of the oven. Something to keep an eye out for.

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vigna D'Alfiero Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though hints of iodine emerge. A barrel sample. On the palate it's quite promising, with rich cherry fruit that gains elegant direction from slightly sour cherry acidity, while the tannic structure is smooth and deft, with some graphite bitterness from wood that will likely fold in with time. It's promising in a traditional key, and will likely also be fairly long lived. Something to keep an eye out for.

Vecchia Cantina Di Montepulciano
Via Provinciale, 7
53045 Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 716092 - Fax: 0578 716051

Vecchia Cantina Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, and somewhat overripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by sweetness and some graphite with moderate acidity. On the palate it's full, soft, and smooth, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from some acidity, while the support comes from full smooth tannins that work from beneath the surface, as it were, flowing into a clean plum laced finish with tannic overtones. It's big, fruit driven in an overripe way, and soft; in terms of accompaniments it will work well with drier meats.
1 star

Villa Sant'Anna
Via della Resistenza, 143
53040 Abbadia di Montepulciano
Telefono: 0578 708017 - Fax: 0578 707577

Villa Sant'Anna Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is closed, of the lights out nobody home variety. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit that is also quite soft, gaining direction from sour cherry acidity, and support from tannins that have considerable warm cedar to them, and flow into a clean cedar-laced sour cherry finish. It's a bit unusual, in that this sort of softness usually comes with riper fruit, but we have what we have; it will work well with drier red meats, I think, say roast beef roasted medium.
1 star